February 23, 2011

THEY SAY AN END CAN BE A START


Carine Roitfled speaks out about why she  left Vogue Paris (it is projected to become somehow, more commercial, so before taken away her freedom over the magazine, she left) now we know she is not in the better of terms with incoming editor in chief Emanuelle Alt, although the magazine will continue the same path for the next six months as planed, and eventually will start to change... After being head master of French fashion for ten years, now she  is open to new projects for her upcoming decade...  and in the meantime here is a glimpse of the last edition (March 2011) produced under her ruling time at Vogue.







Carine Roitfled habla sobre por qué se fue Vogue París (se espera convertir en un medio de alguna manera, más comercial, así que antes de que le arrebataran su libertad en la revista, se fue). Ahora sabemos que no está en buenos términos con la editora en jefe entrante Emanuelle Alt , aunque la revista seguirá el mismo camino por los próximos seis meses y, con el tiempo comenzará a cambiar ... después de ser la cabeza de la moda francesa desde durante diez años, ahora está abierta a nuevos proyectos para la próxima década...  mientras tanto aquí  una pequeña muestra  de la última edición (marzo de 2011) producido en su tiempo como la voz máxima de Vogue Paris.



More on Carine Roitfeld speaks out in her interview for The future of fashion at:
Mas de Carine Roitfeld habla en su entrevista para The future of fashion en


'BLACKFACE'




Artistic or Insulting?

Beyonce plays an 'African role' in homage for Fela Kuti and 'African roots' at the shoot for L'Officiel Paris' 90th anniversary issue.

The singer 'forgot' she is black so she gets a 'black face', many have complained over the fact that by darkening her face the editors plead to 'try not to offend their vast white female audience'. Racist comments and reviews hasn't stop based on the matter that if she was an Asian singer she wouldn't have been painted like a geisha to play homage to the entire Asian continent.

Artístico o grosero?

Beyonce juega al "
papel de africana"
 en homenaje a Fela Kuti  y las "raíces africanas " para a edición  del 90 º aniversario de L'Officiel de París.

La cantante olvidó que es de color negro por lo que le dieron una "cara negro", muchos se han quejado en el hecho de que, oscureciendo su rostro los editores
 presentan la idea  "tratar de no ofender su gran audiencia blanca. Comentarios racistas  no se han detenido basados en la cuestión de que si ella fuera una cantante de Asiano habría sido pintada como una geisha para presentar  homenaje a todo el continente asiático.

February 21, 2011

TICKY TACKY



How cool or how tacky is this idea... to have a mirror available as long as you are carrying your sunglasses, and it comes in quilted acrylic! It's like a reminiscence of a 2.55 Chanel handbag that opens up, so you can fix your lipstick/makeup/hair/ check your hangover face, even if a friend is by your side, you can share your little secret and lend your mirror without taking them off!



¿Qué tan buena o estrafalaria es esta idea ... tener un espejo disponible todo el tiempo que lleve sus gafas de sol. Además viene en acolchado acrílico! Es como una reminiscencia de una cartera de mano  2.55 de Chanel,  que se abre para que pueda reparar su lápiz de labios / maquillaje / cabello / verse  la cara de resaca, incluso si un amigo está a su lado, puede compartir su secreto y prestarle  su espejo sin tener que quitárselas!


http://www.chanel.com/ 

February 20, 2011

NOT EVERYTHING IS LOST






The Bogota international fashion week ends today, but main fashion shows ended last Thursday, a detail I didn't pay attention to and that almost cost me not getting into the last show because I left my invitation thinking the show was Friday night... (If I had missed it I wouldn't have care much anyway) as I missed the one in between the two I was present... Still I made an effort and move my connections pursuing  to get in the one I had no physical invitation for, in the quest I got caught (because in my access pass, my name, well, wasn't mine...) at that moment a friend of a friend gave a waving hand/order and voila I was in, but just like that I felt doing something terribly bad just by sneaking into a show I was openly invited as a VIP (later on this), shows weren't as good as I expected, but I just went to two of them (I have no right to make of it a general statement) 

1- Johanna Ortiz. She showed the same flowy dresses, pants and blouses that you see over and over again and that defines so clear the Latin flare. (In purple, orange and browns), some of her pieces were beautiful, her styling was not! I’ve been to her store, and her quality is good, taken this collection pieces apart and mixed with muted external or more edgy pieces can make hers look really good.

2 - LOFT by Ricardo Piñeres. The closing collection (as I red it) was bondage meets church, but the backdrop image was not that of a church but of a palace room full of chandeliers... so I got lost from the beginning. Dresses for the way to sexy, aggressive women (as he always does for) sometimes dresses were too short, there was to much see through and lingerie was way to small for when you are showing that much. It walked the fine line of porno chic and vulgar stepping more into the second one. The accessories where made by young designers project Maison Finch, from which I adored the bracelets, and again staple marks and more of the usual was there: the shiny, the see through, the uber short dresses, and some maxi skirts, paired with some kind of bathing suit  upper pieces.  A LBD, lots of leather, skinny pants, gigantic white shirts (like your boyfriend's 'next day' ones) those can be cool pieces to mix with your personal wardrobe,  the best look of the whole thing, was the one with a pair of white pants under a knee length white skirt both in leather I think... Decadent.
as the whole show/production looked a bit decadently unfinished as well :s

General aspects:  I'm live proving that you or anybody can get in... That’s something nice because more average people could get access to fashion, and they just have to ask for invitations. Now if they had access to really great fashion, that’s another story... 

On the other hand, room should be given to media, press, buyers, and people that relate, review and push the industry forward. Organizers should focus on this, send invitations to them, locate them, and push the whole industry and communication forces to promote the industry. The whole thing have improve but still a mess a HUGE mess, ORGANIZATION is what it needs, control to the minimum detail, that's how you make things go perfect and smooth. Organizers should take control on more details, the media and VIP  area would get packed in seconds with little control from who is seating where... but I must admit I took seat at the places I was supposed, to enumerate or specify personal invitations could help,  and to have shows in the middle of a major space keeps on looking very fairish...basically there is not specifications on how to develop fashion week or shows here in Bogota, how to organize people, media, editors or bloggers,  if there is a word for it, RANDOM it would be, everything felt very random.  Maybe the only company that could set it up, knows how to set it up, but little of how to make it look stylish and chic as it is supposed to look. The food and drinks offer was very poor, because obviously the logistics group brought the restaurant in town they work with the most… why not bring some more to participation? At least thank god catwalk dividers were fake walls now and not just a piece of black cloth.

That editors from main local magazines didn't go was a buzz, but what should they go for? If all the events year long showcases designers, the whole industry to a national level should be structured: and the main venue for fashion should be the one in Bogota. As every designer is very disperse, some show at some events and some at others... it seems impossible to make of the Bogota 'international' fashion week a strong force in fashion. If events don’t  join forces to produce a mega fashion event instead of several 'so so' ones, the industry is not going somewhere nearly strong.

Pictures above are by local phographer Zuan Carreño, those are the best coverage pictures I could find of the whole event, and they are Polaroid’s which explains why these  ones  look decent the most.



February 17, 2011

SIMB






More than 20 fashion shows, up to 400 fashion goods related expositors, the expectation of negotiations and the bienvenue of buyers to promote Colombian fashion is what goes around Bogotá's  scene these days. I read somewhere this: ''in Bogotá the 'theme of fashion' is a matter of business and the city'' thank god our secretary for the economic development thinks that...(which is the case point! This is an industry and once you get that, it has to work as one! And in order to promote one). What does everybody think France and Italy have made of one of their major assets... just a dressing dolls game? This biannual event used to be known as the 'fashion circle' (high fashion, must say, although is after it, is not very inclusive, but, that  was the less  inclusive name for a fashion week ever). This new name is closer to what it should be (still sounds a bit pretentious), in my humble opinion it should be named the Bogotá fashion week and stick to it, so we  people hearing of it could get it, understand it, recognize with it. If you people responsible for that: keep on changing it... (Well you know what people think about unstable behavior) Bogotá fashion week, simple as that. Then we  could call it the Be Ge fashion week? ¿;)? I'm loosing it here...

It started yesterday and goes until this Friday in Corferias (can we change for once,  at least   the major fashion shows could move to those several very enchanted, chic spaces Bogotá can offer for this type of venues? it would increase a job season:  rentals, services, lots of things that could articulate better what a fashion show should be...OK! just a suggestion), and again in my humble opinion (all together) we should make of it the most important fashion event in this country and not just one of the most (which seems to be a very divided idea) for instance my hard critics are supported on the fact that I'm from Bogotá and that I would love to see a stronger/structured fashion industry in this city.  I will assist for the first time to this SIMB version tomorrow for some of the heavy shows and I’m crossing my fingers for the whole thing to be some kind different from previous seasons, We'll see!

Más de 20 desfiles de moda, hasta 400 expositores relacionados con artículos de moda, la expectativa de las negociaciones y la bienvenue de los compradores para promocionar la moda colombiana es lo que sucede alrededor de mundo de la moda Bogotá por estos días. Leí en alguna parte lo siguiente: ’’en Bogotá el tema de la moda es una cuestión de negocios y la ciudad'', gracias a Dios nuestra secretaria para el desarrollo económico piensa que ... (que es el punto de fondo de esto! Es una industria y, una vez entendida como  eso, tiene que trabajar como una! Y con el fin de promover una). ¿Qué pesara  todo el mundo que Francia e Italia han hecho de uno de sus principales activos... sólo un juego de vestir muñecas? Este evento bianual que solía ser conocido como "círculo de la moda ' (la lata moda, hay que decir, aunque lo intente mucho, no es muy incluyente, pero ese,  era el nombre menos incluyente dado a  una semana de la moda en la historia). Este nuevo nombre se acerca más a lo que debería ser (todavía suena un poco pretencioso), en mi humilde opinión debería ser nombrada la semana de la moda de Bogotá y  adherirse a ella, para que la gente lo oyera,  entendiera, reconocerá . Si los responsables de seguir cambiándolo continúan en su tarea:(Bueno, ya saben lo que la gente piensa sobre el comportamiento inestable…) Semana de la moda de Bogotá, así de simple. Entonces podríamos llamarlo luego la semana BI YI de la moda? ¿;)? Ya estoy perdiéndome  aquí ...

Comenzó ayer y va hasta este viernes en Corferias (podemos  cambiar por una vez, al menos, los desfiles de moda mas grandes podría trasladarse a los varios muy encantadores y, elegantes espacios que  Bogotá puede ofrecer para este tipo de eventos? Eso aumentaría una temporada de trabajo : alquileres, servicios, un montón de cosas que podrían expresar mejor lo que es un desfile de moda bien hecho debería ser ... sólo una sugerencia), y otra vez en mi humilde opinión (todos juntos)  deberíamos hacer de este el evento de moda más importante de este país y no sólo ‘’uno de los más’’ (que parece ser una idea muy dividida), por ahora mis duras críticas se apoyan en el hecho de que yo soy de Bogotá y que me encantaría ver a una industria de la moda mas fuerte y estructurado en esta ciudad . Voy a asistir  por primera vez a esta versión de  la  SIMB  mañana para  algunos de los shows de la semana y estoy cruzando los dedos para que todo sea una pizca diferente a temporadas anteriores, ya veremos!




Corferias
PBX 381-0000

Carrera 37 No 24 - 67 

Bogotá - Colombia. 

February 16, 2011

EAST WAVE TOUCHES WESTERN EAST COAST

The big fashion award winners of the past years are the same new generation of GREAT American designers and they also happen to have a heavy eastern background, (Thailand, China, Singapore, Korea...) Just wondering...does it have some effect on their late huge success? a called eastern wave of designers lead a big percentage for the path in occidental fashion design and are all located on the east coast American fashion capital.

 Thakoon Panichgul of  Thakoon
 Richard Chai 
 Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra
 Phillip Lim of  3.1 Phillip Lim
 Prabal Gurung
Alexander Wang
 Doo-Ri Chung of  Doo Ri
Jason Wu


As some of you may not know  Fashion as a phenomena  (with the big F) used to be restricted and still a very developed occidental principle, (that one of the ephemeral, the new ,the change), a very important one as well because it lead  us to think about it's opposites (what would be of  light if darkness didn't exist) and what deeply matters, (how we waste, why we change, why we love the new, why do we want  the new, and how the range of the new let people project difference and multiplicity, also how to be in Fashion has an effect on the way we live and behave)... The term is so complex that it touches nowadays almost every aspect of human activity, there is  food in Fashion, music genres that one day  are in and the next are out of Fashion, art in Fashion (like when for a period of time, certain ways of expression  like paint, prints, video or sculpture lead the way art takes) and just like that: interior design, architecture, medical procedures, economic projects... where the hip is right now, there is Fashion. There is also fashion (clothing pieces, fashion history, costumes studies) whit the little f  then in this case there is  fashion  in music, fashion in food, fashion in art and that's when fashion as an industry,  serves as a source of inspiration or relates to other fields and helps them to develop  based on the fashion world (clothing, accessories, and beauty  industries as far as they can go). In the end Fashion and fashion, both very related are anything but shallow.

Los ganadores de los grandes premios de la moda de los últimos años son la misma generación de grandes diseñadores de América y también sucede que todos comparten una  ascendencia del oriental,(Tailandia, China, Singapur, Corea ...) Sólo me preguntaba ...¿tiene alguna efecto en su reciente gran éxito? La llamada  ola oriental de Publish Postdiseñadores suma un gran porcentaje de los que están definiendo la ruta de la moda occidental además todos están ubicados en la capital de la moda de la costa este norte americana.

Como algunos de ustedes  sabrán la moda como un fenómeno (con la M grande) solía ser restringida y sigue siendo un principio muy desarrollado en occidente, (el de lo efímero, lo nuevo y el cambio), es muy importante también porque que nos lleva a pensar en sus  contrarios, (que sería de la luz si la oscuridad no existiese) aspectos  realmente importantes, (la forma en que producimos  residuos, la razón por la que cambiamos, ¿por qué nos gusta lo nuevo? ¿por qué queremos lo nuevo, y cómo la gama de novedad permite la diferencia, la estandarización y multiplicidad  de looks. De ideas. De formas de pensar… también  como la manera de estar a la Moda tiene un efecto en nuestra manera de vivir y comportarnos) ... El término es tan complejo que toca hoy en día casi todos los aspectos de la actividad humana, hay comida que se pone de Moda, géneros de música que un día están y los próximos están fuera de Moda, el arte de Moda (como cuando durante un período o durante un cierto tiempo,  formas de expresión o soportes artísticos como la  impresión el vídeo o la escultura lideran las formas que el arte toma) y así diseño de interiores, arquitectura, procedimientos médicos, los proyectos económicos ... Donde este lo mas atractivo, ahí esta el fenómeno de lo que esta de Moda. También hay moda (piezas de ropa, historia de la moda, los estudios del vestido) con  la pequeña m … aquí la moda interactúa con la  música con los alimentos, la moda en el arte, es  el sentido de   moda como industria y, sirve como una fuente de inspiración para otros campos de desarrollo que se relaciona o apoyan en  la moda (las industrias de la ropa, accesorios, y belleza tan extensas como se pueden proyectar) Al final de todo la Moda (y la moda, que tanto ayuda a definir la primera) son cualquier cosa menos superficiales.

NYFW